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Mākemo and its Emerald Lagoon

Secret spots
Published : 8 September 2025

Mākemo and its Emerald Lagoon

In the Tuamotu Islands, sailing demands vigilance and precision, but the effort is richly rewarded when dropping anchor in endless shades of blue, far off the beaten path. In Mākemo, one of the archipelago’s quiet jewels, the magic happens instantly.

The third largest atoll in the Tuamotu Archipelago of French Polynesia by lagoon size, Mākemo stretches 65 kilometers from northwest to southeast, with a width ranging from five to eight kilometers. Here, the horizon blurs between sky and sea, and the expression “paradise lost” truly comes alive. For a long time, the Tuamotu Islands had a reputation as a “dangerous archipelago.” Sailors of old feared these strings of islands, barely visible from offshore due to their low elevation, as well as the tricky passes, treacherous currents, and coral heads lurking just beneath the surface. Even today, despite GPS, vigilance is essential. Navigation is best done by sight, with the sun at your back or overhead, to spot pearl farm buoys and avoid reefs.
To enter the Mākemo lagoon, you must pass through either the Arikitāmiro Pass (the main one) or Tapuhiria Pass. Both are famous for their rich and diverse underwater life. Schools of barracuda and grouper, gray sharks, and Napoleon fish are common sights here. Seasoned divers will relish the adrenaline of these passes, while the calmer sites of Rikiriki and Pāpako—on either side of Arikitāmiro—are perfect for beginners and underwater photography.
Mākemo has the unique charm of seldom-visited atolls. Its coral motu remain well-preserved and invite quiet contemplation. The atmosphere is distinctly Pa’umotu, with the discreet but warm-hearted population oscillating between reserve and curiosity, offering sailors genuine interactions. Life concentrates in the peaceful village of Pouheva, located near the main pass. There you’ll find a pristine white church, a long quay bustling with supply schooners, a copra warehouse, a shaded harbor square, and a lighthouse watching over the comings and goings of boats. Pouheva is also the administrative center of a commune grouping eleven atolls, yet retains its tranquil air despite its bureaucratic responsibilities. Don’t miss a stop at the “ghost village” of Punaruku. On the edge of a dazzling white sand beach, a chapel, an old prison, and a small cemetery linger as moving relics of a bygone era. Here, silence and sea spray tell a different story of Mākemo—between memory and forgetting.

The Atoll of Perfection

But Mākemo isn’t just a backdrop. The atoll is nourished by stories and legends. With a little luck, Pa’umotu locals may share tales of Moeava, the famous 17th-century hero, or the legend of the blue hole (koko) said to lead to Pō, the world of origins inhabited by mokorea, half-human, half-fish creatures. It’s found on the motu of Vaigatika, near a large natural freshwater pool that can be visited.

Foreign sailors have also fallen for its charm. In 1926, famous French solo sailor Alain Gerbault stopped here and nicknamed it “the atoll of perfection.” The phrase perfectly captures the purity of its mint-colored waters, the sense of remoteness, and its many attractions—making it a dream destination, especially after a Pacific crossing like the Pacific Puddle Jump.

Dropping anchor in Mākemo means touching the very essence of the Tuamotus—a fragile balance between vigilance and wonder. In this emerald lagoon, every dive, every legend whispered by locals, every sunrise on an untouched motu reminds us why sailors from all over the world still dream of these islands. In Mākemo, the ocean becomes memory, and perfection, a promise kept.

Raroia, the Kon Tiki Atoll

In 1947, Norwegian anthropologist and explorer Thor Heyerdahl, with five companions, set out to prove that Polynesia was settled from South America. On a balsa raft—the Kon Tiki—they spent 101 days crossing the Pacific, driven by trade winds, before running aground on the motu Tahunamaru in the atoll of Raroia, administratively linked to Mākemo. Their spectacular landfall, though later disproved by botany, linguistics, and archaeology, made the motu famous. Even now, Raroia draws sailors curious to trace that extraordinary adventure.

Raroia is 70 kilometers from Mākemo, elliptical in shape, 40 kilometers long, and 13 kilometers wide. Entry is via the Garue Pass, 80 meters wide, at the northwest end. It can be very rough in strong winds. The village of Garumaoa lies nearby. There was formerly a second village, Tetou, on the windward coast, but it was completely destroyed by a cyclone in 1878.

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