Aratika, a pristine atoll of untamed hypnotic beauty, lies between Fakarava and Kauehi. Recognized by UNESCO for its lagoon’s abundance of life, this coral triangle with crystal-clear waters offers a peaceful stopover, where you can enjoy diving, memorable encounters, and relaxing silence.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site
From the air, Aratika (15°34.4’ S 145°36.6’ W) looks like a shark’s tooth on the Pacific Ocean. Its triangular shape incites you to surrender to its beauty. 20 kilometers long (≈ 12 miles) and 17 kilometers wide (≈ 10 ½ miles), the atoll lies around a 145 km2 (≈ 60 mi2 ) lagoon. This slice of paradise is accessed through two passes: Fainukea to the northeast and Temaketa to the northwest.
Aratika lies 485 kilometers (≈ 301 miles) northeast of Tahiti and 50 kilometers (≈ 31 miles) from Fakarava, on which it is administratively dependent. Its crystal-clear waters with vibrant coral reefs teeming with multicolored fish, are every diver’s paradise.
Fainukea Pass, which is exposed to easterly and southerly winds and swells, is quite challenging for sailors. Approaching the pass is tricky due to the lack of visual cues. The motu that typically border the passes are set behind a large reef flat, only visible from a few meters away (≈ a yard). All that marks the horizon is a seemingly continuous line of breakers. In these conditions, it can be difficult to see the entrance to the atoll. This pass is about five meters (≈ 16 ft) deep and it is perfect for underwater exploration and brilliant for fishing. Beware, however, of violent currents, particularly in southeasterly swells. Several fish parks have been established here.
There are two small islands, Takutua and Tavakero, in the center of the lagoon set like pearls against a turquoise backdrop. Aratika is also a land of traditions, memories, and silence.
An Almost Deserted Village
To the northwest of the atoll, the “new” village of Nukumaru is now the center of local life. There is a small grocery store and another one seven kilometers (≈ 4 miles) from the village. You may find a few shell creations at a small fare. The airport is nearby, simplifying connections to Fakarava.
On the opposite side, northeast of the atoll, you will find Paparara, an almost deserted old village. Located on a motu 400 meters long (≈ 1,312 ft) and 180 meters wide (≈ 590 ft), it was too small to accommodate the airport and its runway. Only one family still lives there, caring for the beautiful Marie-Immaculée Reine de Toutes les Nations Church, whose walls still echo with the memories of generations past.
When the airport was built in 2006, the inhabitants moved to Nukumaru, taking their stories and legends with them. Only a few flat stones of the ancient One-kura marae, battered by the swell, are left standing among the mikimiki. As for the Vaimeho marae on the Tevai motu, south of Temaketa pass, its fate was no better. It lies half-concealed in the lush vegetation.
On the atoll’s eastern side, Onepuehu beach attracts swimmers and surfers with its natural basin creating a sort of false pass. There may not be as much sand as there used to be, but the place is still beautiful.
An Atoll Where Time Unfolds Gracefully
People on Aratika take time to fish, dive, or walk along the coral bed, and to enjoy a meal together or share stories. The locals will tell you about copra oil, about their crafts and share the lagoon’s legends, inviting quiet reflection.
It is a place where everything slows down, and you listen, breathe, and reconnect with nature. Between the motu, the wind sweeps across the lagoon like a prayer, paying homage to its beauty. You are not just visiting an island here; you are embracing the quiet. With crystal-clear waters and unspoiled reefs, Aratika reminds us why sailing in the Tuamotus is such a privilege—where listening attentively and being respectful echo like a promise to the ocean. Simplicity is what makes this “shark’s tooth,” framed by the vast blue ocean, truly unforgettable.
Raraka, the Unassuming Neighbor in the Light of the Full-Moon
About 50 kilometers (31 miles) south of Aratika, Raraka atoll (16°03.8’ S 144°59.9’ W) is 27 kilometers (≈ 17 miles) long and 19 kilometers (≈ 12 miles) wide. It is oval and shelters a vast lagoon of over 340 km2 (about 131 2), connected to the ocean by a single pass to the north. Known as Manureva, its most unusual feature is a motu right in the middle.
The small village of Motutapu is mostly built around the local fish park, made from coral stones piled one on top of the other. In this area, kito grouper fishing has supplanted pearl farming, now in decline following some very tough years. In addition to copra farming, many families sell their fish in Pape’ete. Every year, in June, on the night of the full moon, thousands of groupers gather in the pass to spawn— a mesmerizing display, a little more subdued than Fakarava, but every bit as magical.
Since October 2022, a power plant has been supplying the atoll with electricity, offering much-needed comfort to the community, particularly fishermen. Progress that lights up Raraka’s nights, without diminishing its natural unspoiled beauty and legendary tranquility.
