After making landfall in the southern Marquesas, the natural route for sailors completing a trans-Pacific crossing almost always leads north before turning toward the Tuamotus. The islands of Nuku Hiva, Ua Huka, and Ua Pou form a wild, vibrant trio, rich in regulated anchorages, memorable encounters, and landscapes that feel timeless.
Nuku Hiva, the Enchantress
The largest island in the archipelago, Nuku Hiva stands out as a true jewel. Wild, dramatic, and deeply contoured, it inspired writers such as Herman Melville and Robert Louis Stevenson, captivated by its intensity and sovereign beauty. Between volcanic ridgelines, deep valleys, and light-sculpting vistas, the island can be explored on foot or on horseback. It also shines for its finely crafted handicrafts and remarkably well-presented archaeological sites.
Recreational boating is regulated here: around one hundred sailboats may anchor at the same time, spread across several clearly defined zones.
Most residents live in Taiohae, the administrative capital of the archipelago, set along the south coast. The anchorage, often rolly, is generally secure, though part of the bay is off-limits to anchoring. The small Taiohae dock (8° 54.93 S, 140° 6.07 W) welcomes dinghies, with rings for tying up. Ashore you’ll find restrooms, a market, a handicrafts exhibit, a snack bar, a laundry, and a chandlery. A fuel station is located on the schooner pier.
Be sure to stop by the Tourism Office volunteers. They are a valuable local resource, full of practical information and activity tips, and they offer free Wi-Fi.
If Nuku Hiva is your port of entry into French Polynesia, you’ll need to visit the gendarmerie for formalities (immigration, customs, and agricultural inspection), then the town hall to pay local fees (sorted waste disposal and tourist tax).
The rest of the population is spread among villages such as Hatiheu on the north coast, Taipivai to the west, and a handful of discreet hamlets.
Regulated Anchorages
After the bustle of Taiohae, Nuku Hiva reveals a succession of bays offering a variety of anchorages.
Heading north, Anaho Bay (8° 49.35 S, 140° 3.85 W) appears like a preserved dream: a long white-sand beach bordered by the only coral sand beach in the entire Marquesas. Sheltered from swell and wind, the anchorage—about 40 feet (12 meters) deep—accommodates only ten sailboats, adding to its peaceful atmosphere.
Farther west, Hatuatua Bay exudes a singular charm. The first settlers are said to have landed on this beach. Nearby, the village of Aakapa offers a striking contrast with its long black-sand beach, framed by steep surrounding relief that forms a natural amphitheater open to the ocean.
Continuing north, Hakaehu provides easy landing at the mouth of a small river, convenient when the sea picks up. For those dreaming of an anchorage that is both protected and wild, Haapapani Bay—also known as Hakaea—is an ideal stop. This public land is generally deserted, though locals may occasionally spend a few days there with family. Marquesan traditions call for discretion: introduce yourself, greet others, and take care not to disturb the place.
Sailing back south brings you to Hakaui Cove. Anchoring is done in the western part of Makatea Bay, in 13 to 26 feet (4 to 8 meters) of water. Beach the dinghy on the shore before heading to the small hamlet—about twenty residents nestled against a basalt cliff. From there, a five-kilometer hike follows the entire valley to Vaipo Waterfall, the tallest in French Polynesia.
More discreet, Haahopu Bay on the west coast serves as a remarkable refuge. It can host only one or two sailboats at a time, but its isolation makes it a true haven of tranquility. The anchorage lies about 200 meters from the landing dock, accessible in fair weather. In rougher seas, it’s best to land the dinghy on the beach.
Finally, continuing southeast, Baie du Contrôleur (8° 53.48 S, 140° 2.98 W) unfolds three distinct anchorage areas. Hakapaa Cove, wild and serene, offers a sand-and-mud bottom in 16 to 33 feet (5 to 10 meters). The large central bay of Hakahaa provides anchoring at the head of the bay in 16 to 20 feet (5 to 6 meters), with dinghy access to the village of Taipivai. At high tide, you can motor a short way up the river to reach the small dock at the village entrance. Farther east, Hooumi offers a sheltered anchorage and beach access to this small village.
Ua Pou, the Island of Basalt Pillars
Instantly recognizable, Ua Pou rises proudly with its famous basalt spires piercing the sky. The island dazzles with its sculpted terrain, colorful beaches, and so-called “flower stones,” true mineral treasures with delicate patterns. At the base of these natural columns, villages stretch along calm bays where it’s easy to linger for a few days.
Arrival in Hakahau (9° 21.50 S, 140° 2.85 W), the main village, is via a safe anchorage protected by a breakwater. Ashore, you’ll find the essentials: shops, a clinic, a post office, a bank, and a handicrafts center.
On the north coast, the colorful, pastoral village of Hakahetau (9° 21.42 S, 140° 6.32 W) overlooks Hakanai’s white-sand beach. Its bay offers an extraordinary anchorage with sweeping views of the four spires that made the island famous, best visited from April to September. Be sure to meet Manfred, who grows cacao and makes his own chocolate.
At Vaiehu (9° 23.25 S, 140° 7.73 W), anchor outside the reefs in 23 to 26 feet (7 to 8 meters) of water off a pebble beach.
Farther south, Uapo Bay (9° 26.65 S, 140° 5.38 W) offers a secure anchorage in a small, steep-sided bay.
Ua Pou, the Island of Basalt Pillars
Instantly recognizable, Ua Pou rises proudly with its famous basalt spires piercing the sky. The island dazzles with its sculpted terrain, colorful beaches, and so-called “flower stones,” true mineral treasures with delicate patterns. At the base of these natural columns, villages stretch along calm bays where it’s easy to linger for a few days.
Arrival in Hakahau (9° 21.50 S, 140° 2.85 W), the main village, is via a safe anchorage protected by a breakwater. Ashore, you’ll find the essentials: shops, a clinic, a post office, a bank, and a handicrafts center.
On the north coast, the colorful, pastoral village of Hakahetau (9° 21.42 S, 140° 6.32 W) overlooks Hakanai’s white-sand beach. Its bay offers an extraordinary anchorage with sweeping views of the four spires that made the island famous, best visited from April to September. Be sure to meet Manfred, who grows cacao and makes his own chocolate.
At Vaiehu (9° 23.25 S, 140° 7.73 W), anchor outside the reefs in 23 to 26 feet (7 to 8 meters) of water off a pebble beach.
Farther south, Uapo Bay (9° 26.65 S, 140° 5.38 W) offers a secure anchorage in a small, steep-sided bay.
Ua Huka, the Island of Horses and Canoes
Ua Huka reveals a very different mood: a dry, sun-drenched land where wild horses sometimes cross the ridgelines in silence. In the villages of Vaipaee, Hane, and Hokatu, discover local crafts including carvings, mono‘i oil, and tapa cloth. Don’t miss Meiaute, the most important and oldest archaeological site in the Marquesas, with buried me‘ae and magnificent tiki carved from red volcanic stone.
An arboretum here features several hundred species of fruits and citrus from around the world, spread across more than 60 acres (25 hectares). The archaeological museums of Vaipaee, the Sea Museum of Hane, and the Hokatu Petroglyph Museum display unique and fascinating artifacts.
In Haavei Bay, land on the eastern side of the beach. Vaipaee Bay has a narrow entrance and a small dock; anchoring is recommended south-southwest of the dock.
Hane Bay (8° 55.75 S, 139° 32.03 W) is untenable in a southern swell, and in Hokatu Cove, the landing dock lies to the right when facing the village.
From the Marquesas, your voyage will almost certainly continue on to the Tuamotus. It’s customary to stock up on fresh water and fruits and vegetables here, as they are harder to find in the atolls. Bringing and sharing fresh produce—especially the renowned Marquesan lemons—will ensure an especially warm and appreciative welcome.
